Location: Cordillera Blanca.
Duration: 4 days / 3 nights.
Maximum altitude: 5034 m (summit).
Type of activity: Ice climbing.
Difficulty: Moderate (semi-technical intermediate).
Best season: May to September.
This breathtaking mountain is one of the most visited and climbed by mountaineers due to its imposing height of over 6,000 meters and its attractive pyramidal appearance that captivates anyone who beholds it. From the moment you arrive at the base camp in the Ishinca valley, you will be fascinated by its majesty. But the best is yet to come, when you face the wall with your mountaineering equipment, you will feel a rush of pure adrenaline.
Day 01: Huaraz (3100m) – Ishinca Valley – Base Camp (4400m).
Our adventure begins in the city of Huaraz, from where we head towards the fascinating village of Pashpa. This journey is truly enchanting, as we start in a high plateau with magnificent views of the majestic Huascarán, and then cross beautiful forests of quenuales. As we progress, the valley opens up, allowing us to enjoy impressive views of the majestic Tocllaraju. Finally, our ultimate destination is the Base Camp.
DAY 02: Base Camp – Moraine Camp (5200m).
After enjoying a delicious breakfast, we will be ready to start the ascent. For about five hours, we will climb energetically to reach our next camp. Once there, we will have the opportunity to delight in a stunning sunset while carefully organizing our mountaineering equipment for the most important day. This will be a key moment in our expedition, so it is vital to be well-prepared and organized. Finally, we will settle in the moraine camp, where we can rest and recharge our energy for the big day ahead.
DAY 03: Base Camp – Moraine Camp – Summit (6034m).
On this day, we will leave our camp very early at 2:00 am with a nutritious breakfast to give us the necessary energy. We will begin the ascent towards the summit, which will take us 6 to 7 hours of constant climbing. The first few hours will be easier as we will only walk on the glacier. However, as we progress, the path will gradually become steeper, reaching an angle of approximately 45° to 55°, requiring all of our concentration and skill to keep moving forward.
Before reaching the summit, we will encounter two more difficult sections, for which the guide will fix an anchor point to be safe and overcome that section with an inclination of approximately 65° to 70°. But the view from the summit will be rewarded enough for all the effort made. We can delight in the beauty of the surrounding mountains.
Once we have enjoyed this unique moment, we will begin the descent by the same ascent route, being careful with every step we take. We will descend to the moraine and finally descend to the base camp, where we will spend the night.
DAY 04: Morrena Camp – Base Camp – Huaraz.
After breakfast, we return through the Ishinca valley to Pashpa, where our private transportation will be waiting for us to return to Huaraz.
Informational briefing: one day before the expedition.
Transportation: private.
Mountain guide.
Mountaineering equipment: (helmets, harnesses, crampons, ice axes, ropes).
Cooking equipment.
Food (From the first lunch or picnic to the last lunch or picnic).
Camping equipment.
First aid kit.
Mountain cook.
Private round-trip transportation.
Unlimited drinking water.
DOES NOT INCLUDE:
Entrance fees to Huascarán National Park.
Personal Equipment & Technical: (backpack,harness,boots, crampons, 2 ice axe, 3 locking carabiners, 1 Daisy Chain,1 ATC descender, 3 Cords for prusik, sunglasses,jacket, gloves, pants with High-quality for mountain).
Sleeping bag (-15º to 0ºC) & matt.
Medical and accident insurance.
Personal medicine.
First Breakfast & Last Dinner.
Personal expenses.
Essential items to pack!
- Beanie, gloves.
- Flashlight with spare batteries and bulb
- Mountain goggles, sunscreen.
- mountaineering gloves,liner gloves,mittens
- Down jacket.
- Waterproof jacket or poncho.
- Waterproof pants (Gore-Tex or quick-drying preferred).
- trekking trousers or leggings, sweater
- Underwear, long thermal underwear
- Warm socks (comfortable and thick for mountain boots).
- Hiking shoes.
- Day backpack.
- Hiking poles.
- Water bottle.
- Extra snacks.
- Extra money.